Cho Oyu Expedition

The sixth highest peak in the world and, of the 14 peaks over 8000 meters, has the highest success rate. Because it is perhaps the easiest of the 8000 meter summits, it is quite popular and there can be many expeditions on the mountain at one time. The normal (Tichy) route climbs from the Tibetan side. The peak is commonly climbed in both the pre and post-monsoon season. Most expeditions allow about 6 weeks, Kathmandu to Kathmandu. The spring season schedule normally has climbers beginning their expedition in the first 2 weeks of April, and finishing it in the last 2 weeks of May. The fall season starts in early September and runs to mid-October. Success rates are similar in either season.

Summary

The trip begins in Kathmandu. After a rest sightseeing day there we begin our drive into Tibet. We take a rest day in Nylam to acclimate then continue to the old Chinese Base Camp in two more days. This camp is about 15 miles from Advance Base Camp (ABC) which is reached in two days of trekking. We establish 3 camps above ABC. Camp 1 (21,000') is reached by trail in dirt and screen. Normally, trekking shoes are the only footwear needed for this section. Camp 2 (23,000') is on the upper glacier plateau. Between 1 and 2 is a section known as the Ice Cliff. This steep ice climbing part is equipped with fixed rope and requires some steep front pointing. Camp 3 is at about 24,400' and located on a gentle slope. Above the summit day climbs through some easy rock bands (normally fixed) to the broad summit.